Junior Lead Cup 2015 (Issy)

As I came 3rd in the Youth Open in December, 2nd in the Scottish Championships and 1st in the BLCCs, I won the Junior Lead Cup for 2015! 

The podium!

BLCCs 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 1

The BLCCs was held at Awesome Walls, Sheffield again this year, but this year I was competing in my first year of youth B, so I expected more challenging routes this year! Our first qualifier was technical and crimpy, but I climbed it easily and topped it along with 7 other people. Our second qualifier looked more challenging, as more people were falling off, particularly near the top as it was a long route, however I was one of 4 people to top this route also. I therefore qualified for the finals in joint 1st place.

Qualifier 2

Our final route looked much harder than our qualifiers- thankfully! It was overhanging and fairly powerful, with some poor slopers at the lip of the roof. When I came out to climb, I read through the sequence one last time. I climbed up most of the route easily, until I was approaching the roof section. My foot suddenly popped on a crimpy move- which was very unlike me! I cut loose on the crimps, and managed to get my feet back on, however I was very frustrated as this had sapped my energy. I made it onto the second sloper, and fell going for the first jug on the roof section. I was a little dissapointed, as I knew that if my foot hadn't popped I could have climbed further, however I thought my performance had been decent. When I had untied my knot, Pippa told me that I had the highest score! I couldn't believe it! But with three people left to climb, I was very nervous. Catrin, Abbie and Gwyneth all fell below me however, meaning that I had won! I was British Lead Climbing Champion for youth B, and so happy! I really enjoyed the competition, and the routes were great! Huge thanks to Awesome Walls and the BMC for organising such a fab competition!

On the podium!

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 2

Ratho hosted the SYCCs this year, and I anticipated freezing temperatures! I arrived at the wall on the morning of the comp with plenty of time to warm up, and read my first route. It looked powerful and pumpy, however I thought I could top it. When I came to climbing the route, approaching the final crux I wasn't pumped at all. I climbed across the small roof section, and was approaching the last hold! I thought I was going to top the route, however my foot violently popped off a foothold and I came off suddenly! I was annoyed with myself, however I was still happy as I was in 2nd place after the route. I think this climb was probably one of my only competition performances which I had been truly happy with- I didn't make any silly route reading errors or let my nerves affect my performance for once!
I thought the second route was an easier climb up until the point where I fell off, however I came off as I hadn't route read correctly and just did not know what to do. I was nearly last on the first route, which meant that I was near the beginning of the second route. Due to the fact that there was no break before the qualifiers, I was hugely unprepared for the route. I didn't realise how soon I was to be climbing, and did the fastest warm up ever- just after warming down after my first qualifier! Therefore, when I approached the crux, I had no idea how to do the move. I attempted it it with my foot far to low- in retrospect it was an obvious mistake. however I qualified for finals in 2nd place, despite my mistake on Q2.

The Final Route

When we were called out for observation, I saw that our final route was girls C qualifier 2, and junior girls qualifier 1. I thought the route looked highly top-able, if a bit pumpy. I came out to climb, and went through the sequence again. It was fairly straightforward. I climbed up to the roof easily, and was not pumped at all as I climbed through the roof, and I found that all the holds were positive. I topped the climb easily, and found out that Pippa had also topped the route. Kitty was to climb last, and she topped it also. This meant that countback was used to split us. I was hugely disappointed! I was hoping for a challenging final route, but ours was far too easy.
Nevertheless, I was happy with second place. The comp was really fun, and I am looking forward to the BLCCs coming up!

Topping the final!

Junior British Bouldering Championships 2015 (Issy)

I went in to this competition without any expectations- mainly because I considered myself to be a lead climber, not a boulderer. However I was really happy with my result! I surprised myself, and climbed well, and the comp was great fun! As per usual, I climbed much better on the qualifying blocs than the finals. They were technical, and really fun to climb! I topped 5 blocs in 6 attempts (out of 8), and this put me into the finals in 4th position. I was really happy to make finals, particularly as I am in the bottom of B, and will be back in B again next year! However the final blocs were much more challenging, and I topped 1 in 1 attempt (out of 3). Overall I placed 5th, and I was really pleased as making finals in itself was a huge achievement! I hope to do more boulder comps next year, it was a great experience!

World Youth Championships Arco 2015 (Issy)

In August I traveled to Italy to compete in the World Youth Climbing Championships! I was excited as this was the biggest competition I had ever taken part in in my life, and I wanted to see the standard of the best climbers in the world!

Qualifier 2
Photo by Nick Pope

We spent 10 days staying in Arco, and before the comp we visited two crags, and climbed at an amazing wall in Bolzano. I much preferred the first crag we visited, despite there being a general preference towards the second. The climbs were pumpy, but also quite technical, and really fun to climb! I attempted to onsight a 7b, however I fell off right at the top (much to my frustration!) when I couldn't find the hand hold. It was a great climb however, even though I was highly disappointed I didn't do it- it was the hardest climb I had ever tried to onsight outdoors! The climbing wall in Bolzano was one of the best I have ever seen! The routes were very long and steep, and there was a huge variety of climbs! I had fun climbing some easier but pumpy routes as some last-minute preparation for the worlds. The final crag we visited was after the comp was over. I didn't enjoy this crag as much, as it was a style I had never encountered before. Some of the routes were 40m long! I had a go on a long and pumpy 7a+, and found the climbing style very strange. However, it was interesting nonetheless, and I had a good time!
My experience at the competition was good, however I still felt I could have climbed much better. the first route was steep at the top, and technical nearer the bottom. I read the route, and warmed up thoroughly. There was not much space to warm up however- it was packed with people! I climbed past the first crux easily, but then got myself into an awkward position on the footholds instead of the handholds I was supposed to be on. I cam off awkwardly slapping for a sloper, and I was very disappointed as I could have climbed so much higher had I followed the sequence I had planned. The second qualifier was overhanging, with better holds, and I thought that I would be able to make up a lot of placings on this route. However, I climbed badly, putting in a very bad performance and falling off an easy move about 1/3 of the way up. I immediately recognized my mistakes, and was devastated! Due to this climb, I places 38th overall. This was still a good result, however I was disappointed not to make semis. I had a great time in Arco however, and thanks to the team management for a great trip!

Mitterdorf EYC 2015 (Issy)

Mitterdorf was perhaps my worst comp yet. I climbed badly on both qualifiers- falling off much lower than I would have liked. It was painful to accept that I had just had a bad comp, however I had to move on and maintain my motivation for the worlds! I was placed 38th after the competition, but I came away from the competition determined to work my weaknesses! The comp was still a good experience, as the indoor wall was amazing! Training there after the comp was awesome- it was one of the biggest indoor walls I had ever seen! I am now excited for the worlds in August, in Arco, Italy!

Qualifier 2
Photo by Nick Pope

European Youth Championships Ratho 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 1
Photo by Nick Pope

The European Youth Championships were held at EICA Ratho this year, good for the British as we didn't have to travel miles this time! I felt less nervous going into this competition as I had competed there before, so I had an idea of what to expect. Our first qualifier was a vertical and slabby route which was graded 7c. I read the route, and felt fairly confident that I could top it, so when it was my turn to climb I climbed steadily and didn't have any issues. I was approaching the last quickdraw when I timed out yet again! I was devastated as I thought I could have topped it without any difficulty- I wasn't too pumped at this stage. This left me frustrated as I knew I could have done better, however I began to read my next route, a crimpy overhanging climb up the main wall. The route was fairly straightforward, however I made a route-reading error and came off trying to reach for a hold when I should have just moved my foot. Due to this performance I moved down to 28th place overall. I was very disappointed with this as I was only two places off making semis! I knew I could have climbed a lot better, however I took away from the comp more experience, and recognized more aspects of my climbing to improve. Overall it was a fun comp, and I really enjoyed the routes, despite timing out!

EYC Imst May 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 1

My second EYC was also in May, in Imst, Austria. I was much less nervous for this comp, as I had participated in one before, however this was my first time competing at the Imst wall so I was unsure of what to expect. I was second up on qualifier 1, which had a technical start yet powerful finish, and finished just onto the roof. I watched the demo, then had little time before it was my turn to climb. The first sequence was much easier than I expected, however I took lots of rests to calm my nerves and ensure I climbed smoothly. This meant that I was not too pumped and I thought I climbed well, however  I fell off when the belayer pulled in the rope really tight on a big move. When I lowered off I was told I timed out, which is why the belayer took in the rope. I was devastated, as the three moves that didn't count when I timed out cost me a lot of places!

Qualifier 2

Route 2 was a more powerful route which I thought I could do well on. However, I did not warm down after Qualifier 1 meaning I got flash pump and fell of about 1/2 of the way up! I was annoyed with myself, however next time I will warm down and do a proper warm up between climbs! I finished 34th overall which was not ideal, mainly due to the fact that I timed out. I am psyched for Edinburgh however, as I have taken away some important lessons from this experience!

EYC Dornbirn May 2015 (Issy)

In May I competed in my first EYC in Dornbirn, Austria. I was nervous as this was my first ever European comp, however I was excited to represent GB! On the day of the comp, we arrived at the wall to watch our route demos. The wall was overhanging and very impressive! It was one of the highest walls I had ever seen/climbed on and I was excited to have the opportunity to climb on it! Youth B girls qualifier 1 was technical and vertical, with small crimps. The climb itself was not too hard, however I felt I did not climb my best due to my nerves. I reached the second last clip, however fell early at the top crux section. The last few moves were hard, and only two girls in our category topped the route.
I then focused on qualifier 2, which boys B had just climbed. It was on the overhanging main comp wall and was a much more powerful route. I climbed slightly better on this route as I was less nervous- despite getting only two thirds of the way up this route I was happier with my performance. This put me in 20th position, which I was happy with as my aim for the comp was to achieve a top 20 placing. Overall it was a fun experience, and hopefully I will be less nervous for the next EYC in Imst!

Climbing Outdoors at Malham Cove May 2015 (Issy)

Bolt Revolt, 7a- Flash

Over the long weekend our parents drove me and my brother to Malham Cove to climb outdoors for the 3rd time. On the first day, I warmed up on Rose Coronary. Then I flashed Bolt Revolt, 7a, and attempted to flash Frankenstein, 7a+. I was gutted to drop the last move on my flash attempt, however I sent the route easily second go. I then attempted to onsight Sycophants, 7a however I struggled on a move off a crimpy undercut. The next day, I returned to warm up on Rose Coronary and send Sycophants. Then, I decided I wanted to try something harder. I worked all the moves on Chiselling the Dragon, 7c, but I decided not to have a redpoint attempt as it was nearing the end of the day and my skin was suffering! I am looking forward to returning to send Chiselling the Dragon!

Working the Moves on Chiselling the Dragon, 7c

GB Junior Lead Team Training in Austria April 2015 (Issy)

The Imst Outdoor Wall

In April I travelled to Austria for the GB Junior Lead Team training camp. On the first day, we left from Heathrow airport and met the rest of the team at Munich airport. From Munich, we travelled to Innsbruck which is where we were staying. On the second day we travelled to Imst to climb at both the indoor and outdoor walls. The indoor was very steep and I really enjoyed trying some harder routes! However the outdoor wall was the most impressive by far! It was much higher than anything I had ever climbed on before, and it was a great experience to be able to climb all the way through the roof and up the headwall! The routes at Imst were great, and I had a fun day!

Climbing at Tivoli Wall

On the third day, we visited the Tivoli wall, which was only a short walk from out hotel. This was my favourite wall! The angles were far more extreme than anything I had ever climbed on before! Each category was given a route, and were told to study the route and draw route plans. This was great practice for comps. Youth B and C girls were given a red 7c route which looked hard and steep but toppable. When it was my turn to climb, I climbed up most of the route without many issues, however eventually I pumped out and fell off a big move to the arete. Despite falling when my aim was to top the route, I was happy with my effort as I had reached the joint-highest point. For the rest of the day, I tried some more routes- overall it was a great day!
On Thursday we visited the outdoor wall in Arco, Italy. The wall was very impressive, and there were some very hard routes set! My greatest achievement of the day was flashing a hard and pumpy 7b as the wall was very overhanging! I also attempted a 7c and was happy to climb quite a way up the route! I pumped out on a big move about two thirds of the way up. I really enjoyed the climbing in Arco, and the ice cream was also very memorable!
Finally, on the last day of our trip we visited Tivoli wall again. I tried a couple of routes before it was time to leave. I had a great experience and would like to thank the Team Management for a great trip!

Climbing the 7c at Tivoli Wall

Climbing at Fontainbleau (Issy)

During the Easter holidays, we visited Fontainebleau for my brother's 10th birthday, whilst in France. We went to Bas Cuvier. I had a great time on the boulders- there were so many to try! I onsighted lots of problems, and tried some 6cs, but we found that the grades were very hard! I can't wait to return to try some more of the boulders- I had such a fun day!

GB Lead Team Assessment Weekend (Issy)

On the 7th March we woke up early and travelled to the Leeds wall for the GB Team assessment weekend. For the assessment, 5 routes had been set for each category, which could be attempted in any order. For youth B girls, the route grades were: 7b+, 7b+, 7c, 7c, 7c+. Although I didn't top any of my routes, I felt that I climbed well. I had never been to the Leeds wall before, so I was excited to climb on the steep comp wall! On Sunday the 8th we returned to the wall to try some of the routes again, before a gymnastics session at the Diamonds Gymnastic club. It was great fun! Overall, I had a great weekend, thanks to the Junior Lead Team management! 

GB Lead Climbing Team Inaugural Meeting Jan-Feb 2015 (Issy)

On Friday the 30th January my family and I traveled to Sheffield for my first GB team inaugural meeting. On Saturday morning we met at the Royal Victoria Holiday Inn for a meeting presented by Ian Dunn to discuss what it means to be in the team. We learnt who was who on the team management and had a look at the competitions we would be attending this year. Then, Nick Colton lead a presentation on child safeguarding before we drove to Awesome Walls Sheffield for some climbing and fitness testing. It was really fun to catch up and climb with some team mates before our testing!
On Sunday we met at Awesome Walls for our one-to-one meetings with the team managers, and our medicals. I am looking forward to competing in my first ever European competitions this year, and getting to know my team mates better!