Thursday 24 September 2015

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 2
Ratho hosted the SYCCs this year, and I anticipated freezing temperatures! I arrived at the wall on the morning of the comp with plenty of time to warm up, and read my first route. It looked powerful and pumpy, however I thought I could top it. When I came to climbing the route, approaching the final crux I wasn't pumped at all. I climbed across the small roof section, and was approaching the last hold! I thought I was going to top the route, however my foot violently popped off a foothold and I came off suddenly! I was annoyed with myself, however I was still happy as I was in 2nd place after the route. I think this climb was probably one of my only competition performances which I had been truly happy with- I didn't make any silly route reading errors or let my nerves affect my performance for once!
I thought the second route was an easier climb up until the point where I fell off, however I came off as I hadn't route read correctly and just did not know what to do. I was nearly last on the first route, which meant that I was near the beginning of the second route. Due to the fact that there was no break before the qualifiers, I was hugely unprepared for the route. I didn't realise how soon I was to be climbing, and did the fastest warm up ever- just after warming down after my first qualifier! Therefore, when I approached the crux, I had no idea how to do the move. I attempted it it with my foot far to low- in retrospect it was an obvious mistake. however I qualified for finals in 2nd place, despite my mistake on Q2.
The Final Route
When we were called out for observation, I saw that our final route was girls C qualifier 2, and junior girls qualifier 1. I thought the route looked highly top-able, if a bit pumpy. I came out to climb, and went through the sequence again. It was fairly straightforward. I climbed up to the roof easily, and was not pumped at all as I climbed through the roof, and I found that all the holds were positive. I topped the climb easily, and found out that Pippa had also topped the route. Kitty was to climb last, and she topped it also. This meant that countback was used to split us. I was hugely disappointed! I was hoping for a challenging final route, but ours was far too easy.
Nevertheless, I was happy with second place. The comp was really fun, and I am looking forward to the BLCCs coming up!


Topping the final!

Junior British Bouldering Championships 2015 (Issy)

I went in to this competition without any expectations- mainly because I considered myself to be a lead climber, not a boulderer. However I was really happy with my result! I surprised myself, and climbed well, and the comp was great fun! As per usual, I climbed much better on the qualifying blocs than the finals. They were technical, and really fun to climb! I topped 5 blocs in 6 attempts (out of 8), and this put me into the finals in 4th position. I was really happy to make finals, particularly as I am in the bottom of B, and will be back in B again next year! However the final blocs were much more challenging, and I topped 1 in 1 attempt (out of 3). Overall I placed 5th, and I was really pleased as making finals in itself was a huge achievement! I hope to do more boulder comps next year, it was a great experience!

World Youth Championships Arco 2015 (Issy)

In August I traveled to Italy to compete in the World Youth Climbing Championships! I was excited as this was the biggest competition I had ever taken part in in my life, and I wanted to see the standard of the best climbers in the world!
Qualifier 2
Photo by Nick Pope
We spent 10 days staying in Arco, and before the comp we visited two crags, and climbed at an amazing wall in Bolzano. I much preferred the first crag we visited, despite there being a general preference towards the second. The climbs were pumpy, but also quite technical, and really fun to climb! I attempted to onsight a 7b, however I fell off right at the top (much to my frustration!) when I couldn't find the hand hold. It was a great climb however, even though I was highly disappointed I didn't do it- it was the hardest climb I had ever tried to onsight outdoors! The climbing wall in Bolzano was one of the best I have ever seen! The routes were very long and steep, and there was a huge variety of climbs! I had fun climbing some easier but pumpy routes as some last-minute preparation for the worlds. The final crag we visited was after the comp was over. I didn't enjoy this crag as much, as it was a style I had never encountered before. Some of the routes were 40m long! I had a go on a long and pumpy 7a+, and found the climbing style very strange. However, it was interesting nonetheless, and I had a good time!
My experience at the competition was good, however I still felt I could have climbed much better. the first route was steep at the top, and technical nearer the bottom. I read the route, and warmed up thoroughly. There was not much space to warm up however- it was packed with people! I climbed past the first crux easily, but then got myself into an awkward position on the footholds instead of the handholds I was supposed to be on. I cam off awkwardly slapping for a sloper, and I was very disappointed as I could have climbed so much higher had I followed the sequence I had planned. The second qualifier was overhanging, with better holds, and I thought that I would be able to make up a lot of placings on this route. However, I climbed badly, putting in a very bad performance and falling off an easy move about 1/3 of the way up. I immediately recognized my mistakes, and was devastated! Due to this climb, I places 38th overall. This was still a good result, however I was disappointed not to make semis. I had a great time in Arco however, and thanks to the team management for a great trip!

Mitterdorf EYC 2015 (Issy)

Mitterdorf was perhaps my worst comp yet. I climbed badly on both qualifiers- falling off much lower than I would have liked. It was painful to accept that I had just had a bad comp, however I had to move on and maintain my motivation for the worlds! I was placed 38th after the competition, but I came away from the competition determined to work my weaknesses! The comp was still a good experience, as the indoor wall was amazing! Training there after the comp was awesome- it was one of the biggest indoor walls I had ever seen! I am now excited for the worlds in August, in Arco, Italy!
Qualifier 2
Photo by Nick Pope

European Youth Championships Ratho 2015 (Issy)

Qualifier 1
Photo by Nick Pope
The European Youth Championships were held at EICA Ratho this year, good for the British as we didn't have to travel miles this time! I felt less nervous going into this competition as I had competed there before, so I had an idea of what to expect. Our first qualifier was a vertical and slabby route which was graded 7c. I read the route, and felt fairly confident that I could top it, so when it was my turn to climb I climbed steadily and didn't have any issues. I was approaching the last quickdraw when I timed out yet again! I was devastated as I thought I could have topped it without any difficulty- I wasn't too pumped at this stage. This left me frustrated as I knew I could have done better, however I began to read my next route, a crimpy overhanging climb up the main wall. The route was fairly straightforward, however I made a route-reading error and came off trying to reach for a hold when I should have just moved my foot. Due to this performance I moved down to 28th place overall. I was very disappointed with this as I was only two places off making semis! I knew I could have climbed a lot better, however I took away from the comp more experience, and recognized more aspects of my climbing to improve. Overall it was a fun comp, and I really enjoyed the routes, despite timing out!

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