Tuesday 2 June 2015

EYC Imst May 2015 (Issy)


Qualifier 1
My second EYC was also in May, in Imst, Austria. I was much less nervous for this comp, as I had participated in one before, however this was my first time competing at the Imst wall so I was unsure of what to expect. I was second up on qualifier 1, which had a technical start yet powerful finish, and finished just onto the roof. I watched the demo, then had little time before it was my turn to climb. The first sequence was much easier than I expected, however I took lots of rests to calm my nerves and ensure I climbed smoothly. This meant that I was not too pumped and I thought I climbed well, however  I fell off when the belayer pulled in the rope really tight on a big move. When I lowered off I was told I timed out, which is why the belayer took in the rope. I was devastated, as the three moves that didn't count when I timed out cost me a lot of places!

Qualifier 2
Route 2 was a more powerful route which I thought I could do well on. However, I did not warm down after Qualifier 1 meaning I got flash pump and fell of about 1/2 of the way up! I was annoyed with myself, however next time I will warm down and do a proper warm up between climbs! I finished 34th overall which was not ideal, mainly due to the fact that I timed out. I am psyched for Edinburgh however, as I have taken away some important lessons from this experience!

EYC Dornbirn May 2015 (Issy)

In May I competed in my first EYC in Dornbirn, Austria. I was nervous as this was my first ever European comp, however I was excited to represent GB! On the day of the comp, we arrived at the wall to watch our route demos. The wall was overhanging and very impressive! It was one of the highest walls I had ever seen/climbed on and I was excited to have the opportunity to climb on it! Youth B girls qualifier 1 was technical and vertical, with small crimps. The climb itself was not too hard, however I felt I did not climb my best due to my nerves. I reached the second last clip, however fell early at the top crux section. The last few moves were hard, and only two girls in our category topped the route.
I then focused on qualifier 2, which boys B had just climbed. It was on the overhanging main comp wall and was a much more powerful route. I climbed slightly better on this route as I was less nervous- despite getting only two thirds of the way up this route I was happier with my performance. This put me in 20th position, which I was happy with as my aim for the comp was to achieve a top 20 placing. Overall it was a fun experience, and hopefully I will be less nervous for the next EYC in Imst!

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